Kenmore Dryer Belts | OEM Replacement Parts – PartSelect.com (2024)

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$17.19

Dryer tub belt broke

Removed the two screws that attatch the lent channel to the top of the dryer, then lifted the top of the dryer by pushing in on the two locking tabs located at the front , left and right , corners of the dryer top with a small flat head screw driver. The top of the dryer will fold back out of the way. At this point I removed the two 1/4 inch screws that are located on the inside of the dryer front left and right corners that hold the front panel/door to the two side panels. Now I was able to lift the front panel up and set it to the side. The bottom of the front panel that contains the dryer door that I just removed was held on the bottom by two clips that slide into slots on the front panel and did not require any removal to disconnect the bottom of the front panel, just pull up on the front panel. Since the tub was held in place by floating on a seal at the back of the dryer and a seal on the front panel , which I just removed the tub is now free floating except for the two alignment roller wheels at the bottom of the tub. It is easier if you lay the dryer on its back at this point with front of the tub pointing up. I pulled the tub out and cleaned the years of built up lent and removed all the pieces of the old , destroyed, belt. Note, the belt tentioner is located at the front of the motor which on the bottom right hand side. If your belt is broke like mine the tensioner may/will fall to the back of the dryer when you tilt it back, but do not worry. Once the dryer was cleaned up I put the tub back in place , still on its back and made sure the two alignment rollers were in place and rolled freely when the tub was turned by hand. Another note, my original belt tensioner did not have a rolling wheel that the belt rode on , but was a semi-circle smooth surface that the belt remained in constant friction with when the dyer was running, so I made sure the replacement tensioner I ordered with my new belt did have a rolling wheel that the belt would ride on, which I believe will reduce wear and extend the belt life. The new belt came with a diagram of the belt and tensioner routing which was helpful. Note: do not take the tensioner wheel off/apart when trying to route the belt. Follow the instructions routing diagram. The tensioner is held in palce by inserting the bottom back half into the slot in the bottom floor of the dryer making sure it is aligned with the belt pully on the shaft of the dryer motor. The dryer is still on its back side. Now, it was easier for me to route the belt around the center of the tub, following the marks from the original belt, and hold in in place in a few spots with masking tape and then route it thru the tensioner and onto the front pully of the motor. Make sure you have the grooves of the belt against the tub and the grooves are aligned with the pully on the motor. Now you can remove the masking tape that was holding the belt around the tub and spin the tub by hand watching the belt making sure it is not in a bind and is traveling around the motor pully , tensioner and tub freely. Make sure the tub is still sealed on the back side wall. As you turn the tub by hand you can adjust the belt by hand so that is following the original marks around the tub left by the orignal belt. Also double check the two alingment rollers and make sure they are spinning and on track. Now put the front panel with the door on by sliding it onto the two clips that are one the bottom at each side and put the two screws in that hold the front panel to the two side panels. Now stand the dryer back up and spin the tub by hand again making sure it has a good seal on the back side and on the front panel. Pull the top back down and put the two screws in that hold the lent channle to the top. I am not sure when the belt started failing on my dryer, but was amazed at how quiet it runs now. Guess I was use to the extra noise made by a dryer that was about to die. This was a cheap and easy repair and glad I did it myself. Read more...

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$53.59

very loud squeeling sound

The issue was the idler pulley. First I began opening up the front panel based on a youtube video but soon realized the model was slightly different and required a lot more items to remove. I saw the pulley in the back with nothing in the way so I put the front panel crap back on and removed the rear panel. There it was, very simple to remove and replace. I'm not looking forward to drum rollers though. Hopefully they're aren't as difficult as they appear. Read more...

Your Price

$17.66

Squealing noise

We followed the instructions for the drum glide replacement and changed the belt and drum support bearing piece, cleaned it out too. Works like a charm. Thanks for saving us a bundle. Read more...

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$31.27

Noisy when drying. A bumping noise

Watched the video a couple of times. After that it was a breeze. Read more...

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$57.93

Noisy Dryer

When I described the noise to a YouTube appliance diagnostician, I was directed to check the felt seals front and back of the rotating drum for wear, tears, or foreign objects. As it happens the felt seals looked find and there were foreign objects so, not wanting to disassemble and reassemble the dryer more than I had, I ended up replacing all the replaceable moving parts that I considered possible culprits: The idler tension spring, the idler tension bracket (which includes a nylon pulley wheel), the drum belt, the five rubber-tipped bearings that support the drum and keep it in place, and the foam seal on the blower housing which seemed a little brittle and old, as well as high-temperature adhesive for the latter. The instructional videos here and on YouTube were extremely helpful (I doubt that I would have attempted this job at all, had I not watched these ahead of time). The most time-consuming aspect was waiting for the arrival of the parts as I didn't order them all at the same time or all from the same place (I ordered from whomever could ship me a given part the fastest. Disassembly took less than an hour. Re-assembly with the new parts in place took about the same but was a little more awkward because this appliance sits in a very narrow closet and it's difficult to ensure that the 4" flexible duct stays in place when sliding the appliance back into the closet. No regrets. Now I know the basics if this dryer needs attention in future and I also know all the parts that I can eliminate as suspects in any future maintenance (the parts that I replaced) Read more...

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$44.87

The dryer turned on but the drum did not move when you pressed start even though It started it cycles.

I YouTube it and there’s a step by step process on how to do it, took maybe 30 mins. If I can so can you Read more...

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$31.89

the rear drum bearing was worn the dryer became very noisy

i removed the scews just above thr opened dryer door, i was then able to swing the dryer top cover back. i then removed the lower front panel screws ,the the screws securing the front of the dryer ( where the door is ) and removed it. there are just 2 wires to disconnect. after the front is removed you gain full access for drum removal, remove the belt make sure the wires are not in the way and remove the drum.i also used a vacuume to clean the inside of the dryer. the front drum slides are very easy to replace only 2 screws each.remove old parts install new parts then just put the dryer back together in the reverse order i took it apart. after re-assembly i turned the dryer on it was so quiet running my wife and dogs were very happy. ps. i just want to thank the people at partselect for having all my parts in stock and for the speed in which i received them. other than having to repair my dryer it was a very pleasant experiance. Read more...

Your Price

$76.68

Dryer would run 1 min then stop running with some heat in drum

Videos are excellent to open and access internal parts. It turned out a rat was killed in the blower fan when we first encountered the problem. This prevented the blower from turning which interfered with motor function.

This required removing drum & belt, disconnecting motor clips, blower belt, and blower housing. The blower housing needed to be disassembled. Having a 5/16” & 1/8” ratcheting nut driver makes this process much easier. Don’t try this with a wrench.

After getting rid of the rat and decomposition, we sanitized the entire housing with soap & chlorine bleach.

Reassembly was uneventful and relatively easy. We ended up replacing 4 rollers, 2 belts (drum belt & blower belt), the thermistor which was damaged as a result of the blocked blower.

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$11.02

Broken Dryer Belt

1st I pried the dryer top open then disconnected the two wires for the auto shut-off. Removed four nuts with driver that opens front and releases dryer barrel. Lifted front up a bit to remove from two lower tabs at bottom of unit and put aside.

I then slid the belt over the barrel noting the side up directions on the belt. On the lower left on the back of unit I opened up the vented cover to reveal the motor pulley and belt tension pulley. I put the belt on the pulley and brought the belt tension pulley over the belt. I then aligned the belt to the proper point on the barrel and reattached the front being careful to center the barrel onto the rim that is built into the front. Take care to align all the tabs and shims in the correct order so that barrel rotates freely. Replace auto shut off wires to switch on inside of front and close top.

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