The Ultimate Maryland Crab Crawl: Six Guided Quests for All Things Crab (2024)

Edited by Jane Marion

By Suzanne Loudermilk, Amy Scattergood,Mike Unger, and Lydia Woolever

Photography by Justin Tsucalas | Illustrations by Ryan Snook

Food & Drink

A quest for all things crab.

Edited by Jane Marion

By Suzanne Loudermilk, Amy Scattergood,Mike Unger, and Lydia Woolever

Photography by Justin Tsucalas

Illustrations by Ryan Snook

WHEN CRAB SEASON STRIKES, the hankering hits so hard,it’s practically primal: We have to eat crab. And lots of it. As ourstate crustaceans emerge fat and full from their winter’s nap atthe bottom of the Bay, consuming crab becomes a kind of regionalreligion.

Here in Maryland, we’ll take them any way we can get’em—and the options are limitless. Crabmeat is strewn across pizzasand nachos, crammed into egg rolls and pot stickers, folded into dipsor soups, shaped into luscious cakes or fried into fritters, sprinkledon soft pretzels or Caesar salads, or stuffed into shrimp. And ofcourse, we’re always happy to eat them straight out of the steamer,encrusted in J.O. spice or Old Bay.

No matter what, there’s no suchthing as too much crab. And for those of us lucky enough to live inthe Old Line State, we don’t have to look beyond our Bay—beginningin late April, the first soft-shells start to appear and go straightthrough fall, though summer is high season for cracking. (Thanksto dwindling crab populations, sometimes restaurants source theirblues from Texas, North Carolina, or Louisiana.)

So, how best totackle the task? This year, for the first time ever, we embarked onsomething we’re calling a crab crawl. (Why should barflies have allthe fun?)

Below, we cover six neighborhoods inand around Baltimore that are packed with crab houses, seafoodmarkets, and other interesting places to explore. And while the ideaof eating a progressive meal that starts at one crab house and leadsto another might seem novel (and a bit hedonistic), based on our extremelyscientific research, it’s both filling and fun.

The beauty ofthese crawls is that you can do each one from start to finish—or callit a day after several stops and then get back to it on a second round.Know before you go that some crawls are walkable, while othersrequire a short drive. Take a friend or family member—or invite everyperson you’ve ever known. We’ll admit, some of these itinerariesare a bit ambitious. But don’t be daunted. Any day (or night) thatbegins—and ends—with crabs is bound to be a good one.

➊ By the Docks

3321 Eastern Blvd., Middle River

Start yourcrawl at this classic MiddleRiver surf-and-turf spot for alunch that leans toward finedining, with white tableclothsand bottles of wine mounted onthe wall. There are myriadsalads, sandwiches, and largerentrees to choose from, butpacing yourself is paramount ifyou’re going to complete thiscrab crawl. Order the seafoodsalad, rife with sea scallops,plump shrimp, and a sprinklingof crabmeat. It’s a star—andshould be shared. Next on theagenda: digesting.

➋ The Glenn L. Martin Aviation Museum

701 Wilson Pt. Rd., Middle River

This small-but-mighty museumwith knowledgeable guidesshares the story of Maryland’saviation history. The museum’snamesake—a pioneering aviatorand industrialist—and hismanufacturing company playedan integral role in WWII, employingthousands who traveledfor work to this area. Thereal highlight is visiting the 15or so aircraft carriers on displayfrom the Korean and Vietnamwars, including a Vietnam-eraF4C fighter and a Hueygunship used for search andrescue in Vietnam. You’ll needabout 90 minutes if you wantto see everything—and if youget lucky, you might catch theNational Guardsman landing in formation along the privatejetway. Odds are, even thosewho’ve lived in Marylandfor years have never paid avisit to this hidden treasure.

➌ Marshy Point County Park

7130 Marshy Point Rd., Essex

This county greenspace offersseveral one-to-two-mile, easyhiking trails that are well-markedwith sweeping viewsof Dundee and Saltpeter creeks. (If you’re feeling ambitious,you can rent a canoe orkayak.) There’s also a naturecenter with an ongoing rosterof educational events and adisplay with information aboutnative species.

➍ Crazy Tuna Bar & Grille

203 Nantico*ke Rd., Middle River

The vibe is island-meets-estuary at this bustlingrestaurant that boasts spectacularwater views and abuzzy tiki bar with boozydrinks and a beachy setting.Grab a stool or snag a turquoisepicnic table. Wherever youperch, sip on a Mai Tai orgrapefruit crush and peoplewatchas the yachts dock onHopkins Creek.

➎ Schultz’s Crab House

1732 Old EasternAve., Essex

For the totalBawlmer experience, there’sno better place to pick crabsthan this 54-year-old, JamesBeard Award-winning joint,where the servers call you“hon,” the air reeks of crabspice, and iconic A. AubreyBodine photographs line thewood-paneled walls. Schultz’sdoesn’t take reservations, butit’s easy enough to snag a seat, whether you want to sit attheir down-home bar or grab atable in the dining room, directlyunder the stuffed marlin.The only decision you’ll needto make is how many hardshells—which arrive stackedhigh on a red plastic tray—youcan handle. Start with spicysteamed shrimp tossed withonions, then move on to somesteamed-to-order crabs coveredwith proprietary spice. Ofcourse, the crustaceans comewith all the accoutrements,including a mallet, a roll ofpaper towels, and a galvanizedbucket for shell detritus. Takeyour time to unwind and playa game of pool or hope that Lady Luck is on your side bybetting on Keno.

➏ Miss Twist Ice Cream

122 Back River Neck Rd., Essex

No Maryland mealwould be complete withoutsome soft serve or a scoop ofcold comfort to cleanse yourpalate and help you digestdinner. We recommend acreamsicle twist or bananasplit topped with caramel andcoconut. And if you’re too fullto move a muscle after all thatcrawling, place your order at the drive-through window.

Crab Hack

Nearby neighbor Hard YachtCafé in Dundalk featuresnightly live music if youhave any steam left.

➊ Little Havana

1325 Key Hwy., Federal Hill

It would seem likeseafood sacrilege to begin acrab crawl at a landlocked restaurant,so we kicked off ourstrut through South Baltimoreat one of the neighborhood’soldest—and most revered—establishments. Housed in aformer warehouse for morethan 25 years, Little Havanahas been drawing customers toits killer Cuban food, tropicalco*cktails, and patio with stunningharbor views. We startedwith a delightful mojito, madewith fresh mint and sugar, anda bowl of crab dip. Served withwarm pieces of pita bread in afried tortilla-shell bowl, theappetizer was creamy andtopped with cheese, but stilltasted like crab—a rarity at many places that only do lipservice to the seafood. When wewere done, not even a tiny pieceof that edible bowl remained onthe plate.

➋ Baltimore Museum ofIndustry

1415 Key Hwy., FederalHill

We popped next door to thischarming museum, whose homeis a circa-1865 oyster canningwarehouse. Today, it boasts severalseafood-related exhibits,including the original Old Bayspice grinder brought to Baltimoreby Gustav Brunn, a spicemakerwho fled Nazi Germany in1939. Here, he eventually createdthe iconic seasoning thatwe’re still fanatical about sprinklingon our steamed crabs (andeverything else).

➌ The Local Oyster

838 E. Fort Ave., Locust Point

If that dose of culturemakes you hungry again, moseyfour blocks or so to a newcomeron this revamped section ofLocust Point. The sister spot totheir Mount Vernon Marketplaceflagship is bright and airy, with a friendly staff and welcomingaura. There’s a section of crabsignatures on the menu thatincludes a crab cake, crab dip,and a crab pretzel, but for thisstop we endorse the crab macand cheese, which is rich,gooey, and riddled with visiblechunks of lump crab.

➍ Fort McHenry

2400 E. Fort Ave., Locust Point

Walk offthat full feeling by strollingdown Fort Avenue to the fort.It’s just over a mile, so if youneed a pit stop, we suggest grabbing a Green Machine IPAat Diamondback Brewing Company(1215 E. Fort Ave., No.008). Even if you don’t go intothe visitor’s center or the fortit*elf (which famously inspiredour “Star-Spangled Banner”),the peninsula is a gorgeousplace to jog, walk your dog,read, or just take in the picturesquepanorama of the PatapscoRiver.

➎ Barracudas

1230 E. Fort Ave., Locust Point

We did a quick loop on the fort’swalking path before headingback up Fort Avenue to thistypical neighborhood bar. There are several crab items on themenu, including crab soup,surf-and-turf nachos, and ablackened crab po’ boy, butthe best of the bunch is theseafood fra diavolo pizza.Topped with generous portionsof shrimp, crab, spinach,and mozzarella, its crust iscrispy, and its sauce lives upto its name. We’ve rarely hada spicier pie.

➏ L.P. Steamers

1100 E. Fort Ave., Locust Point

Finally, it’s time for the“pick” de resistance. In a cornerrowhouse sits one of themost popular crab houses inthe city. Head’s up—the placecan get packed on weekends,but the wait is worth it,whether you eat inside, atone of the tables on thesidewalk, or upstairs onthe rooftop deck. Thecrabs here are meaty,lightly seasoned, andsteamed to perfection. It’sthe perfect place to endyour crawl, but be advised:As you toss the lastof your shells into ourbucket, your fingers willsting, your feet will ache,and your belly will be full.In Baltimore, this is whathappiness feels like.

Crab Hack

In between stops,put on your sealegs and ridethe HarborConnector alongthe Patapsco.Get off on oneof four piers orsimply enjoythe view fromthe water. Bestof all, during theweek, it’s free.

➊ Ocean Pride

1534 York Rd., Lutherville

This circa-1971 fixturelures in locals and out-of-townerswith its weighty crabs. Kick offyour crawl with a half-pound (ormore) of jumbo Gulf shrimp,steamed traditionally with chunksof soft onion and spices. If the anticipation is too great, diginto a half-dozen larges, recentlya mix from Maryland andLouisiana, sprinkled generouslywith J.O. spice and cooked toorder. Eat your fill—pace, don’trace—and relax. You’re going totake a short, digestive drive toyour next destination.

➋ Pappas Restaurant & Sports Bar

1725 Taylor Ave., Parkville

You cango fancy at Pappas and sit atone of the cloth-covered tablesin the main dining room, or youcan go casual and grab a stoolat the bar, like we did, surroundedby multiple TVs showingvarious sports games. It’stime to indulge your inner Poseidonwith a plate of two-ouncemini crab cakes for five exquisite bites. The crispy crab eggrolls are a nice prep, too, withgreat crabby flavor. Make a noteto come back for the restaurant’sfamous crab cake (an Oprah favorite)and a range of other dishes,from an excellent cream ofcrab soup to a retro crab imperial.

➌ The Crackpot

8102 Loch Raven Blvd., Towson

This half-century-oldstalwart has undergone newownership and remodeling inrecent years but still provides astandout spot for steamed crabsand other iterations, from crabcakes to beer-battered crab fluff.Indulge in Southern seafood beignets,which are delightful, deep-friedballs of shrimp and lumpcrab. Depending on your hungerlevel, consider some cooked-to-order hard-shells, which will likelyhail from Louisiana. Enjoy yourfill before heading to downtownTowson to stretch your legs.

➎ Barley’s Backyard Uptown

408 York Rd., Towson

Before youhike up several flights of stairs(there is also an elevator) toreach Barley’s rooftop deck, strollaround Towson to work up anappetite. There are some surprisesto be found: colorful plantersand murals painted by localartists and an art gallery housedin second-floor ink shop.Then by the time you’re seatedin Barley’s outdoor space,you’ll be ready for an orangecrush with fresh-squeezedjuice or an Eastern Shore mulewith Old Bay vodka. If you’vesaved room, they’re suitablecompanions to noshing on abowl of creamy crab dip, surroundedby toasted baguetteslices and celery sticks—justsaying. Take in the airy view.Next up: duckpin bowling.

➏ Stoneleigh Lanes

6703 York Rd., Towson

If it’s been awhile since you rolled a balldown a wooden lane, the staffis happy to review the scoringprocess and basic rules of thegame. For $16, bowlers ages11 and older get an hour anda pair of bowling shoes. Forgethigh tech—you count thefallen pins yourself and usepencil and paper to tally yourpoints. Nostalgia scores bighere. After all that hard work,you deserve something sweet,and that’s just steps away.

➐ The Charmery

6807 York Rd., Towson

After showing offyour bowling prowess, walk ashort block to this locally owned ice cream shop, whosefirst store sits in Hampden.While some flavors change,you can count on finding “always”choices like MarylandMud, Tell Tale Chocolate, andOld Bay Caramel—all appropriateendings for a day packedwith seafood. Sit inside thecheerful space or grab an outdoortable for people-watchingwhile enjoying your wellearnedtreat. Note to self: Skipbreakfast tomorrow.

Crab Hack

Conrad’s Crabs& Seafood Marketin Parkville offersa carryout optionin case of next-daycrab withdrawal.They’re openmost nightsuntil 8:30 p.m.

➊ Café Dear Leon

2929 O’Donnell St., Canton

Start your crawlwhere most things should begin:with a cup of excellent coffee.This Canton bakery opens early(6 a.m.), makes splendid cortados, and bakes in stages, togive you the stamina you’llneed for a day of crawling.They make plenty of pastriesat dawn, but you want to gethere at 11 a.m. or shortly after,as that’s when they startselling their famous crabtamago sandos. These areJapanese-style sandwiches,made with pan de mie, crabmeat,and Kewpie mayonnaise-laden egg salad, allformed around a dashi softboiledegg.

➋ Mama’s on the Half Shell

2901 O’Donnell St., Canton

Just a few hundredfeet down the block from CaféDear Leon is this 20-year-oldtavern, a cozy old-school spotwith plenty of patio seating.Sit down, order a crush fromthe extensive co*cktail menu,and indulge in a triple-threatdish in the form of decadentcream of crab soup loadedwith lump crab and toppedwith an Instagrammable friedsoft-shell. After maybe anothercrush, wander south to the Canton Waterfront Parkand enjoy the scenic vantagepoint while you take thepromenade to the next stop.

➌ Captain James Seafood Palace

2127 Boston St., Canton

There’s no missing thisplace: The massive restaurantis built to look like amerchant ship somehowdocked along BostonStreet—deck and portholesand all. Take a seat insideand order the crab spanakopita—the owners are Greek,hence the dish (and theGreek flag flying next toMaryland’s above their outdoorcrab deck across thestreet). If you’ve got time,cross over and have anotherbeer—or crush—there, along the waterfront.

➍ Matthew’s Pizzeria

3131 Eastern Ave., Highlandtown

No crab crawlwould truly be completewithout a slice or two (orthree) of the crab pie at Matthew’s—the city’s oldest pizzeria,open since 1943. Thepizza is topped with a heap oflump crab, covered with mozzarella,and browned to perfection.You might want totake a break with a jauntthrough Patterson Park orbring a blanket and a book(may we suggest WilliamWarner’s Beautiful Swimmers)and hang out for a bit. By thispoint, you’ll need to find yourcar to get to the next stop,especially since you’ll be prettytired and full.

➎ Jimmy’s Famous Seafood

6526 Holabird Ave., Broening Manor

Your last stop is at Jimmy’s,a colossal seafoodrestaurant on the edge ofDundalk, which has beenserving up crabs and moresince 1974. Once a bingo hall,the place now has diningrooms, banquet halls, bars, andoutdoor seating. Make yourselfat home and order a dozen orso crabs, which will eventuallytumble down onto your paper-coveredtable, a sprawl of crabseasoning-covered crustaceans.The crab toast here is verygood, as are the crab cakes,though you may just want tofocus on the crab feast, theday’s proper finale. Just do notleave without getting aslice of Smith Island cake,the many-layered yellowcake with chocolate icingdeemed the official dessertof Maryland.

➏ Spellcraft Tattoo

2350 Boston St., Canton

After all the food,and drink, why not get ablue crab tattoo, courtesyof the artists at Spellcraft.Ask for inkman Dave Ira.(Obviously, this is optional.)

Crab Hack

Commune with nature and feedthe ducks leftover crackers orbread bits at Patterson Park.

➊ Davis’ Pub

400 Chester Ave., Annapolis

This neighborhoodbar is a locals’ go-to for watchingNavy football and Universityof Maryland lacrossegames, with its solid beer list,comforting pub fare, and cozyinterior, where every tablecomes with its own can of OldBay. Open daily at 11 a.m., itsoutdoor seating is the perfectperch for a Bloody Mary, madewith a local mix and toppedwith that spicy seasoning. (Wewouldn’t judge you for orderinga bowl of their homemade crabsoup for breakfast, but saveroom for Stop 2.)

➋ Chick & Ruth’s

165 Main St., Annapolis

Located in the middle of MainStreet, this circa-1965 deli is aMaryland institution, with super-sized sandwiches namedafter local politicians and crab cakes so famous they’re nowshipped across the country. Startthe day with either a crab omelet,crab Benedict, or the “Hogan’sBipartisan” (aka a combo ofMaryland and cream of crabsoups), or even go for a crab dip-coveredbaked potato. You’ll worksome of it off walking to your nextlocation.

➌ U.S. Naval Academy

290 Buchanan Rd., Annapolis

The nation’s best sailors get theirtraining in Annapolis, wheremidshipmen often wander aboutMain Street in their all-whiteuniforms. Tour the school’shistoric grounds, visit the on-sitemuseum, and spend some time inthe chapel, where you’ll find thecrypt of John Paul Jones, akafather of the U.S. Navy, and originalTiffany stained glass windows.

➍ Jimmy Cantler’s Riverside Inn

458 Forest Beach Rd., Annapolis

It’s time to eat again,and a short drive across thegorgeous Naval Academy Bridgewill bring you to this belovedcrab house, tucked away in aresidential neighborhood nearthe Severn River. Watch thewatermen pull in as you sit onthe outdoor deck, flag yourserver for a pitcher of beer, andthen order like a local—thatmeans a pile of number-twocrabs, not the extra-larges. Theyalso fry up some of the bestsoft-shell crabs around, withdelicious hush puppies and coleslawto boot. Grab a souvenirmatchbook on your way out thedoor.

➎ Main Street, Annapolis

Main Street

Amble through the brick andcobblestone streets of this historiccity—once chosen as theU.S. capital before D.C. Eachalleyway offers windows intohistoric homes, plus a coterie ofcute shops, from McBride Gallery on Main Street to Ka-Chunk! Records and Old FoxBooks on Maryland Avenue andWelcome Home Annapolis onState Circle (crab knives included).

➏ Preserve

164 Main St., Annapolis

After an afternoonof shopping and a siesta,sit along the waterfront, andmake your way to this farm-to-tablerestaurant for regionallysourced and inspired fare. Therotating menu features a fewsweet touches of Maryland crabthroughout the season, like thefancy lump-flecked agnolottipasta with local sweet corn thatwe had last summer. Thoughyou can’t go wrong with anythingBay-inspired here (welove the blue catfish and chips).

Crab Hack

Help yourself digest by boogyingthe night away to live music atStan & Joe’s Saloon on West Street.

➊ Harris Crab House

433 Kent Narrow Way N., Grasonville

As soon as you cross over the Bay,pull off to this true-blue, family-runcrab house, open daily at 11 a.m. and with an outdoor deckperfect for watching workboats haul in their seafood harvests.There’s a jumbo menu, but we always make a beeline for the soft-shell sandwich, which wemaintain is a perfectly acceptable breakfast, especially with an orange crush. You can also throw in a few market-priced hardshells for good measure, asyou’ve got a 30-minute drive to your next location.

➋ Easton Antiques

25 N. Harrison St., Easton

Before you leave home,pack a cooler, as this best-kept-secretantique store located inthe heart of historic Easton sellswhat might be the best crab soupin the Old Line State. Order a fewfrozen pints of Shore Boys fromthe front counter, stash them onice in your car, then enjoy themas a future meal. You can thankus later.

➌ The Crab Claw

304 Burns St., St. Michaels

If there is one quintessential crab house onthis estuary, it might be 15 minutesdown the road, at this waterfrontshack along the Miles Riverin the salty-dog enclave of St.Michaels. The paper placematsgive all tourists the 4-1-1 on howto dissect their crustaceans,which are steamed on-site andoften brought in by local watermen.Start with the clam stripsand a house ale, then head forthe hard-shells, which comedoused in a spicy dredge of seasoning.Watch the ducks swimalong the docks and experienceour state nickname, the Land ofPleasant Living, firsthand.

➍ Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum

213 N. Talbot St., St. Michaels

Just next-door tolunch, this classic museum is atreasure trove of Chesapeakehistory, with a historic lighthouse,scenic cruises, and aspecial exhibit up throughwinter about climate changealong this estuary. Best of all,though, there’s an impressiveworking shipyard, where artisansbuild and maintain afleet of wooden boats.

➎ Lyon Rum

605 S. Talbot St., Unit 6, St. Michaels

No visit toa sailor’s town would be completewithout a strong swig ofrum. Windon Distilling Company—a woman-owned, St. Michaels-based rum maker—crafts small-batch spirits oftenfound in beloved co*cktail barsin Baltimore. Stumble down tothe bottle shop to taste theirvarious offerings and snag afew to take home with you. The coconut liqueur, madeusing real fruit, is a fan favorite.

➏ Ruse

209 N. Talbot St., St. Michaels

At the west endof the main drag, this hip newcomerhoused in The WildsetHotel creates some of thechicest cuisine on the shore.It’s popular, so make your dinnerreservation in advance, orroll the dice for a seat at thebuzzy bar. The evolving menupulls from the seasons, like acrab and ramp rangoon appetizerin springtime. You canalso order local oysters and aside of swanky soft serve(think matcha) for dessert. Andif you’ve had one too manycraft co*cktails, book a roomand stay the night.

Crab Hack

If the sun isstill high inthe sky, swinginto TerrapinNature Park inStevensville onthe easternedge of theBay Bridge.Here, you’ll finda sweepingsunset over theChesapeake.